If the pandemic has boosted the demand for nail polish, it has also accelerated pre-existing trends, including for this category: naturalness, elimination of controversial ingredients, search for performance…
“Over the past ten years, there has been an unprecedented technological shift in the nail polish industry,” Explain Pierre Miasnik, CEO of Fiabila, one of the industry leaders. And the French company has largely contributed to this! While monomer-based gel formulas are marketed, although their use is not completely safe, Fiabila has chosen to innovate by offering alternative solutions adapted to consumer expectations.
A wide range of technological solutions
“We are working on several technologies adapted to different market segments. But whatever the technical choice, we always offer quality formulas, 100% vegan, produced in plants that meet the strictest quality and environmental protection standards,adds the CEO,to offer ever more natural, safe and effective products.”
All these technologies and innovations will be presented in Bologna, Italy, during the next Cosmopack show, where Fiabila will present a collection of classic nail polish, i.e. all nail polish products based on the formation of a film by solvent evaporation. Today, these products are divided into two main categories: traditional oil-based formulasand biobased formulasincreasingly popular with brands and consumers.
“Today, we can reach levels of up to 90% biosourced raw materials with very satisfactory quality. All our formulas are tested on panels and their performance levels (hold, drying, shine, etc.) are perfectly calibrated,adds Pierre Miasnik.
Beyond that, more recently, Fiabila has redeployed the technology of reactive or hybrid formulas, which consists of adapting classic formulas for a hybrid use of nail polish – hence its name. These formulas contain an oligomer which gives them additional properties. The application is the same as with a classic nail polish: the film forms after the evaporation of the solvents and when the oligomer physically dries. Then, an overcoat is applied to polymerize the film: in the presence of UV rays (natural light or LED lamp), the nail polish hardens and becomes even shinier. “The result is truly exceptional, the varnish is shiny and lasts eight days,underlines Pierre Miasnik. Fiabila has patented two oligomers for these hybrid formulas.
In addition, the Salon Prodigy Technology is composed of reactive formulas under LED lamps designed to compete with gel formulas containing monomers. The use of oligomers instead of monomers avoids the formation of an occlusive film which is particularly difficult to eliminate. If it lasts a little less, the product is much healthier for the nails!
In addition to these two large families, Fiabila offers solvent-free water-based nail polish. There is a range for children, which can be removed with soap and water, and a range for adults, which can be removed with nail polish remover.
Finally, Fiabila benefits from two recent innovations: the Do Not Disturb Technologywhich offers almost odorless formulas highly appreciated in Asia, and a range of eco-designed nail polish with recycled solvents recovered during the company’s manufacturing process, so purity levels can be guaranteed.
All these solutions meet market expectations related to naturalness and performance! And since, in all segments, safety remains the main concern, Fiabila has developed several methods to limit the possible formation of nitrosamines in formulas. It has become a hot topic, especially in Switzerland, Germany and Austria, where the rules have been tightened in this area. According to the company, by eliminating certain types of clays, bentonites, and by using inhibitors, under certain conditions, the presence of these substances can be divided by ten. A patent has been filed for this technology.
A booming market
From an industrial point of view, Fiabila has continued to invest, the company now has sufficient capacity to support the growth of the world market.
For example, the group has just opened a new filling site in Poland. The 8,000 m2 factory has been operational since early April: it has automated lines, state-of-the-art equipment identical to that of the group’s other units, and technicians trained in France for three years.
Always in search of optimum quality, Fiabila has also just completed the restoration of the pigment grinding unit of its factory located in Maintenon, in the south-west of Paris. The new technology implemented considerably minimizes the risk of contamination of the air by pigments. Indeed, for the second consecutive year, the site obtained EcoVadis Platinum certification for CSR. Fiabila is working to have this level of performance recognized for all its units around the world with more global labels.